Transmission Seal Replacement

You will need a thin-walled 30mm socket to remove the output flange nut. 
Steve D. at "The Ultimate Garage" has the best deal on these.  About $22 bucks.

Parts Required:

1. Support car with Jackstands.
2. Drop Exhaust system by unbolting 4 bolts at header junction, and the single bolt above muffler. Then slide off the rubber hangers near the rear of the system and then lower the entire system.
3. Remove heat shield by removing (8) 13mm bolts and (2) 10mm bolts.
4. Loosen Driveshaft coupling with pliers.
5. Unbolt 3 Bolts that connect driveshaft to the output shaft of transmission.
6. Unbolt the Driveshaft center support carrier so you can lower the middle of the driveshaft and slide it off the output shaft of the transmission. Do not let the rear half of the driveshaft rest on the pipe that connects the two fuel tanks together.
7. Disconnect the shift linkage from the shift lever by removing the E-clip and sliding the linkage out of the shift lever.
8. Remove shift lever from shifter carrier by twisting the shift cup and pushing up from underneath the car.
9. Remove the shift carrier by unbolting the (2) 13mm bolts that hold it to the transmission. Then slide the carrier forward until
   it comes out of the rear holder, then take the carrier out.
10. Remove the slave cylinder (but leave it connected to the hydraulic line.)
11. Support the Transmission with a Jack.
12. Unbolt the 4 19mm nuts that connect the transmission to the bell housing.
    You will need a half moon 19mm wrench, or a homemade wrench to get the top drivers side 19mm
    nut undone.
13. Remove the (4) 13mm nuts that hold the transmission bracket to the unibody.
14. Slide the transmission backward until the input shaft is clear from the bell housing, then
    lower the transmission out from under the car.

1. In order to remove the output shaft nut you will first have to remove the lock plate. This can be done by bending in the sides with a small screwdriver or punch. Then you can grab the plate with some needle nose pliers and pull it out.
2. The next step is easier with an impact wrench, but can be done without one. The impact wrench just makes it easier to hold the output flange from spinning. You will however need a 30mm thin walled deep socket to remove the nut. Steve D. sells these for about $22 bucks.
3. Now you need to pull the output flange off. This can be done with a puller, or by gently tapping and spinning the output flange as you knock it off the ouput shaft.
4. Once the output flange is off, you can remove the seal with a seal puller. You can get these at any auto parts store for a few bucks.
5. To install the new seal, coat the inside lip with some oil and then gently knock the seal in with a soft hammer, or use the other seal as a spacer to protect the new seal for getting beaten up. Knock the seal in until it is flush with the transmission housing.
6. Before re-installing the output flange, apply some hylomar to the splines of the flange and then slide it on the shaft. This will prevent transmission oil from leaking through the splines. I put a little blue locktite on the nut as well to make sure no oil gets through. Torque the output shaft nut.
7. The final step is to reinstall a new lock plate.

1. In order to get to the shift shaft seal you will have to remove the shift knuckle. This is done by inserting a screwdriver in the slot in the little black collar and sliding it off the shift knuckle. You can then drive out the little pin that holds the shift knuckle on. You need to drive the pin out from the bottom.
2. Remove the shift shaft seal by using a seal puller. Be very careful to not gouge the housing area of the seal.
3. Put a little bit of oil on the sealing lip of the new seal and carefully press it in. This small seal bends easily so go slow. I used a socket to help drive it in.
4. Reinstall the shift knuckle. This is a good time to replace the shift knuckle and the little foam pad inside it.

1. Drain the oil from the transmission.
2. Remove the 13mm bolts that hold the front cover onto the transmission. Pay close attention because three of the bolts are longer than the others and need to be re-installed in the same positions.
3. Pull the cover off. It may need to be gently pried off. Save the thin large metal shims that go against the bearings.
4. Pay close attention to how deep the input shaft seal is recessed in the input shaft cover. Measure the depth for reference. You can then remove the seal using a seal puller.
5. You may also want to drive the black piece out of the input shaft cover and put some sealant in there, and then put it back together. Also, on the inside of the cover, there is a little metal circle piece. Make sure you put some sealant behind that to hold it in place when you put the cover back on.
6. Drive the new seal into place. I used the old seal to get it as far as I could. I then used a large socket working with light taps to get the seal to the desired depth. Put some oil on the sealing area of the new seal. Go slow when driving the seal into place. If you go too far it is quite difficult to pull the seal back out without damaging it.
7. Clean the input shaft cover sealing surfaces on both the cover and the transmission. Use a little gasket sealer on this area. Make sure the large metal shims are put back in their position. When installing the bolts be sure to seal them with hylomar or some locktite. Torque them to the correct amount.